Welcome to San Francisco! While you're in town, check out these restaurants, bars, and cultural attractions. For more personalized recommendations, hit up Micah and Kate.
FOOD
Shabusen: There's a reason Shabusen tops the food list: It's our favorite date-night restaurant (and one we visit at least twice a month). We recommend the shabu shabu with original (bonito) broth, though the spicy miso broth is also pretty darn good. Order hot sake and gyoza to round out the meal. 1726 Buchanan Street; (415) 440-0466
Local Mission Eatery: As its name indicates, Local Mission Eatery sources all of its ingredients locally, and its oft-updated menu features the best in seasonal produce. Though the menu is small, it's well curated (yes, we just used that word, but at least we're not without a shred of self-awareness). Protip: LME is an awesome spot for an early brunch. Only interested in pastry? Head through the dining room to Knead, the bakery at the rear of the shop, and grab a butter pecan croissant (or two, or three). 3111 24th Street; (415) 655-3422
King of Noodles: Filling, cheap, and delicious–that's the best way to describe a meal at this spot in the Sunset. Sure, it's a bit of a schlep from the Mission, but the homemade noodles, soup dumplings, and scallion pancakes more than make up for lost travel time. 1639 Irving Street; (415) 566-8318
Universal Cafe: We love Universal for its universal appeal (yuk yuk yuk!). In all seriousness, this tiny New American spot has a menu that appeals to veggies, meat-lovers, and everyone in between. Awesome for brunch, boasting a solid wine list, and leading the pack w/r/t potted succulents, Universal is one of our neighborhood favorites. We recommend the house-made sourdough English muffin sandwich (brunch), the hanger steak (dinner), and the Kir Royale (anytime). 2814 19th Street; (415) 821-4608
Hillside Supper Club: On the topic of local gems, allow us to recommend Hillside Supper Club. Abutting scenic Precita Park, Hillside has a strong brunch and a killer dinner service. It's a great choice for mid-sized groups, though larger groups are also welcome. (Parties of 10 or more are required to order the family-style dinner, FYI.) Protip: The house-made peach "Pop-Tart" a la mode is required, not optional. 300 Precita Avenue; (415) 285-6005
The Mill: Are you familiar with San Francisco's (in)famous $5 toast? If not, familiarize yourself by heading straight to the source! Serving Four Barrel coffee and Josey Baker's (freaking delicious) bread, The Mill is perfect for a quick breakfast or snack. It's not ideal for catching up on work–there's no wi-fi here. There are, however, acres of subway tile and scores of chambray-clad men. 736 Divisadero Street; (415) 345-1953
Bob's Donut & Pastry Shop: Bob's occupies a different segment of the baked-goods spectrum than the aforementioned Mill, but is no less delicious than its hip cousin. Some San Franciscans argue that Bob's is the best/only real donut shop in the city, and those people are correct. Open 24 hours a day, Bob's fills the need for watery coffee; melancholy, Hopper-esque lighting; and honest-to-god-delicious apple fritters. 1621 Polk Street; (415) 776-3141
Beretta: Beretta's got a lot going for it. For one, it's (almost) a straight shot from our house to Valencia. For another–and more importantly–it offers plentiful options w/r/t meal size and type. (That said, you won't be able to make reservations for groups smaller than six, so plan accordingly.) We recommend ordering a selection of small plates to share; our favorites are the broccolini with calabrese chili and garlic and the roasted beet/ricotta salata. The pizzas are also A-OK. 1199 Valencia Street; (415) 695-1199
Walzwerk: If you're a tad peckish, steer clear of Walzwerk, whose generous portions and carb-heavy dishes are best approached by one with a keen appetite. Don't let us dissuade you from visiting, however; the soljanka (cabbage soup with salami) and rouladen (stuffed/rolled tri-tip) warrant a visit, especially if you're a fan of East German cuisine. Parties of ten or more can also order family style. 381 South Van Ness Avenue; (415) 551-7181
Southern Pacific Brewing Company: Affectionately known as The Broery, Southern Pacific is a great choice for a fast, casual dinner, especially for giant groups. Our favorite dishes include the Brussels sprouts (sauteed with bacon, of course), the bacon and corn pizza, and the bahn mi served with sage fries. The margaritas aren't half bad, either. Protip: If you'd like a more intimate dining experience, get your dinner to go and walk half a block to the Homestead, located at the corner of 19th and Folsom. 620 Treat Avenue; (415) 341-0152
El Farolito: For a kick-ass burrito, look no further than El Farolito. And that's the whole story–move along, folks. 2779 Mission Street; (415) 824-7877
The Vestry: The Vestry is great for brunch and dinner alike, but at brunchtime you'll have the option to sit outdoors on the patio, soaking up the sun (maybe) and watching the passersby on Valencia. The food here is darn tasty (we wouldn't be recommending it otherwise), but the menu is less than ideal for those with gluten sensitivities/restrictions. On a more positive note, the Lady Guadalupe is one of the best breakfast cocktails in the city! 777 Valencia Street; (415) 551-5157
Ragazza: We don't eat out in the Haight very often, but when we do it's typically at Ragazza. Known for their pizzas (whose crusts are extraordinarily thin and crisp while remaining elastic), this cute spot also offers beautiful salads–the little gems with farro, radishes, and green goddess dressing is a meal unto itself. Reservations recommended. 311 Divisadero Street, (415) 255-1133
Foreign Cinema: We'd be remiss if we didn't add this to our must-recommend-for-brunch list. Foreign Cinema offers a representative San Francisco brunch experience, complete with oysters (and a solid selection, to boot), bloody Marys, omelets made with pastured eggs, and astounding wait times. 2534 Mission Street; (415) 648-7600
Mission Pie: We <3 Mission Pie! In fact, a good portion of our pie buffet will be coming direct from this awesome local bakeshop. If you think pies are this shop's only offering, though, note that you're happily mistaken. The owners also dish up cold salads, quiches, savory baked goods, and beverages, the ingredients for which are almost all locally sourced. Open 'til 10 PM Monday through Sunday. 2901 Mission Street; (415) 282-1500
Yamo: Don't let the dingy exterior or greasy interior deter you–this fast Burmese counter is seriously good eats. Everything is cooked in front of your eyes by one of the three loud, cranky ladies that run the place and the food comes out fast, filling, and delicious. On a warm day, the tea salad or cold noodle (for less than $6 each) are highly recommended, but if the weather takes a turn for the chilly, the chicken noodle soup (with its rich, spicy, coconut broth) takes the cake. 3406 18th Street; (415) 553-8911
DRINKS
The Homestead: What else but The Homestead would lead this list of recommended bars? Micah and Kate's alehouse of choice, the 'Stead is perfectly low-key and neighborhoody without veering into unapproachably divey territory. Besides having the nicest and most talented barkeeps in the city, the Homestead is dog friendly and serves peanuts for just a buck a basket. Throw the shells right onto the ground–once you pop, the fun don't stop. 2301 Folsom Street; (415) 282-4663
Blind Cat: In the not-so-distant past, Micah and Kate met at the Blind Cat one Thursday night for their very first date. They shared some whiskeys and some laughs; they also shared some hideously personal/embarrassing/date-inappropriate stories, including one about a severed foot. The rest, as they say, is history(!) This is the spot where the magic happened–if you're curious and don't mind dives, check it out! Protip: Cash only, y'all. 3050 24th Street; (415) 824-1922
Toronado: Beer geeks of the world, unite (and then meet at this rad bar in the Haight). Toronado's draft list is insane, and the bar abuts Rosamunde, a delectable sausage shop. Protip: Toronado can get crowded–early evenings on weeknights are your best bet. 547 Haight Street; (415) 863-2776
The Page: Though it has been considerably broified in recent years, The Page retains much of its gritty charm. Best for: Cheap whiskey, pool, minimal conversation. Not recommended for: Those who like sitting or speaking softly. 298 Divisadero Street; (415) 255-6101
Smuggler's Cove: Inconspicuously situated at the Hayes Valley/Western Addition border, Smuggler's is an award-winning tiki bar with a selection of rums that will melt your face off. Case in point: As recently as a few months ago, they had one bottle from the last batch of rum produced and distributed by the British Royal Navy. Rum haters can choose from a menu of classic midcentury cocktails. As you'd guess, Smuggler's gets pretty busy–early on a weeknight is the best time to drop by. Protip: Try the grog–it's delicious. 650 Gough Street; (415) 869-1900
Driftwood: Looking for a mellow, folksy vibe and a comfortable spot to just hang out? Driftwood is your place. It's rarely as packed as some of our other favorite options, and all the bartenders we've met have been darn friendly. Protip: Though all the cocktails are good, the Native Tongue is really good. 1225 Folsom Street; no phone number listed
Two Sisters Bar and Books: If you love top-notch cocktails, tasty tasty cheeses, and books, Two Sisters is your jam. This neighborhood favorite is suuuuper tiny, so get there early or be prepared to poach a seat (or stand). In addition to small bites, Two Sisters also offers entrees. 579 Hayes Street; (415) 863-3655
ATTRACTIONS
Chinatown: As they say, "you don't change Chinatown, Chinatown changes you." There are very few touristy places in San Francisco that are actually worth braving the crowds for. Lombard St? Pfft. It's not even the crookedest in SF (that honor belongs to Vermont St., right around the corner from our house). Walking across Golden Gate Bridge? Not unless you like being socked in by thick fog and high winds. But then there's Chinatown. It's an amazing interstitial space between two cultures; neither fully western nor fully eastern, it balances in the middle. It's the sort of place where state senators and Chinese gangsters meet over dim sum across the street from Anthony Bourdain filming himself drinking mai tais for the Travel Channel. And it's perfect.
Alcatraz: Museum? National Park? Notorious prison? Symbol of Native American pride and resistance? Alcatraz is all of these things. The former home of Al Capone and The Birdman–and the island that prison sits on–are open for tours day and night; the latter is especially creepy. Word to the wise: There's only one company with ferries to the island, and tours can sell out weeks in advance. So, Protip: If you plan to go to Alcatraz while you're here, buy your tickets as far in advance as you can.
Sutro Baths, Ocean Beach, and Lands' End: If the weather's decent (or if you're impervious to precipitation), make a trip to Ocean Beach to spend some time by the water. Though swimming isn't an option, the beach is great for strolling, running, kite flying, surfing, and all sorts of other activities. Be sure to check out the beautifully desolate ruins of the Sutro Baths, which are located at the north end of the beach. From there, hike the trails at Lands End–they offer some amazing views and abundant wildflowers. And if after all this you need to take a moment to rest your feet, visit the Cliff House restaurant, which was also opened by Adolf Sutro of baths fame.
Golden Gate Park + California Academy of Sciences: It's easy to spend a whole day at Golden Gate Park, and if you have the time, you definitely should. The park is huge (1,017 acres) and is home to attractions to please the whole family. Our recommendations?
- The Dutch Windmill/Queen Wilhelmina Tulip Garden: True, the tulips won't be in bloom this time of year, but who doesn't love a good windmill?
- The Japanese Tea Garden: Gorgeously serene, this is the oldest public Japanese garden in the country. It's also home to a tea house, where you can sip tea and sample traditional Japanese snacks.
- The Archery Fields: Try your hand at archery at the public archery range. There's no onsite pro shop, but you can rent everything you need at the nearby SF Archery Pro Shop. (Equipment rental is $25/day per person.)
- The Conservatory of Flowers: Check out the rare orchids, dahlias, palm trees, and more!
The California Academy of Sciences, also located inside the park, is also worth visiting. Through November 30, the museum has a skulls exhibit, which has gotten a lot of favorable press. Also rad are the planetarium, aquarium, and living roof.
The Kabuki Theater: This is our favorite movie theater in the city. Why, you ask? Besides having the most comfortable seats, the Kabuki also has top-notch concessions (think giant Rice Krispie treats encrusted in mini M&Ms) and a full bar. It also has a locational advantage–it's near some of our favorite restaurants in the city, Shabusen among them.
Green Apple Books: We strongly encourage you to drop by Green Apple, which many folks* consider the best bookstore in the city. Green Apple is open late (10:30 on weeknights) and has a damn robust selection of new and used titles. Also of note is their well-rounded poetry section, which includes a goodly number of chapbooks. Long story short? Check 'em out!
*These folks are Micah and Kate, but who else would we be talking about here?
Idle Hand Tattoo: Wanna get inked to commemorate our wedding weekend? Far be it from us to stop you. (In fact, more power to you!) Ours is a city full of tattoo parlors, but we love Idle Hand. All the artists here are great, but (Protip) shop owner Holly Ellis is killer at portraits. Walk-ins are welcome, but appointments are recommended. Another Protip: Idle Hand is cash only, but there's an ATM at the bodega across the street. After your appointment, weave your way to Molotov's for a beer and to spend time with some cute/scrappy dogs.
Fisherman’s Wharf: Fisherman's Wharf is not a place we suggest going. Honestly, it's really not all that worth it. The crowds are huge, the prices are higher than they should be, and any connection it once had to the city has been eroded over years of Disneyfication. But, if you feel like a trip to SF isn't complete without it, allow us to make a few suggestions. Irish Coffees at the Buena Vista are expensive, yes, but they are delicious and totally worth it. The sea lions at Pier 39 are loud and obnoxious and act like they own the place–which is awesome! (Those little buddies are adorable, if smelly.) The Musee Mecanique, also at Pier 39, is one of the world's largest collections of vintage and antique coin-operated mechanical arcade machines and is creepy and delightful in the way that only 100-year-old mechanical puppets can be. And finally, The Interval at Fort Mason center is a bar, salon, and museum run by The Long Now Foundation, a group focused on long term-thinking founded by, among others, the co-founder of Micah's former company (Metaweb) and avant-garde rock god Brian Eno.